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Mardi, 01 Novembre 2011 11:30

Fuel Rockets

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Fuel Rockets

Bezzera BZ07
Photo: Greg Broom

Do you come unhinged without your daily latte? The artisanal coffee craze has given rise to a fleet of make-it-yourself machines that turn out delicious cups.—Dan Kehn

The Basics

Why are they so expensive?
Consistency. Good machines are made from durable materials like copper and steel and have a double boiler or a heat exchanger—expensive internals that allow you to simultaneously pull shots and run the steamer. Cheap machines also do a poor job of preinfusion (wetting and expanding the grounds before brewing), which results in flat, woody-tasting espresso.

What’s the deal with coffee pods?
Machines that rely on capsules (prepackaged doses of espresso) are easier to use and less expensive up front. But convenience comes at a cost—75 cents to $1 per shot—and the results lack the richness and subtlety of fresh-ground beans. There’s also the enviro-guilt that comes with throwing out a paper pod after every shot you pull.

Will I need anything else?
Don’t blow your wad on the machine. The most important piece of hardware in your home cafè9 is the grinder. Blades produce a random mix of dust and boulders that will make your espresso bitter. Metal burr grinders, like the Baratza 685 Virtuoso Preciso ($325), yield a uniform output and better crema—the prized lather that floats atop every good shot of espresso.

Buying Advice

The heavier, the better. You want a machine with a steel body and as little plastic as possible. If you’re looking for equipment that delivers consistently good espresso without a learning curve, a unit with electronic temperature control will increase your odds of getting perfect crema every time. Single-boiler designs, while cheaper, brew and steam from the same tank, so your shot can go cold while you’re frothing your milk. Double-boiler and heat-exchanger machines let you do both simultaneously for quicker and more ample output.

How We Tested

We put our beans through a professional-grade grinder, then churned out espressos, cappuccinos, and lattes with each machine, adjusting the grind, dose, and extraction to yield the best result in terms of body, crema, balance, and clarity.

Built around a heat exchanger—which flash-heats the brew water in a copper tube that passes through the boiler—the sturdy, compact Bezzera can produce several drinks in rapid succession, making it perfect for dinner-party cappuccinos. It also lets you shift brew temperature on the fly (higher for more chocolate flavor, lower for more fruit). Such micromanagement may appeal only to espresso aficionados, but the payoff is real: tasty quaffs that stand up to what you’d get from machines three times the cost.

WIRED Easiest brew-temperature adjustment among heat-exchanger models tested. Nifty joystick for precise steam control.

TIRED Poorly placed hot-water tap can burn your fingers if you’re not careful. Requires frequent refilling of the water tank. |

$1,368, Bezzera

Rating: 9 out of 10

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